The Ibiza Case
On how a dictatorship accidentally created the conditions for one of the twentieth century's most fertile cultural experiments, and what the growth imperative did to it next.
Pliny the Elder recorded the name in the first century AD. The Greeks had called them the Pityussae — islands of pines — for the forests that covered them. The pine trees and the gnarled juniper, the sabina, introduced by the Phoenicians and cultivated for its extraordinarily hard wood, were the first thing anyone noticed about the place. They are still there. Some of the junipers at Cala Bassa, on the island's west coast, are a hundred years old. They are classified as cultural heritage under Spanish law and cannot be touched. The beach club sets its Balinese beds in their shade.
The trees are the right place to start, because what happened to Ibiza is the story of a place whose aura — whose specific cultural gravity — was produced by conditions that had nothing to do with commerce, and then consumed by a commerce that could not have existed without them. The aura is now eroding. The trees are still there. The question is how long the trees can outlast what is being sold in their shade.